Trying to de-solder a game chip from a board (Sega Genesis) and not having luck

[Tanooki]

I've been at this for hours trying to get a way down to doing this. A few attempts got a bit further, once I thought I jacked the board so I re-soldered it and the game as is came back to life. The thing is I need this board for another valuable game with a busted PCB if what I was told in the sale was right (probably likely is.)

I've just got a soldering cut, a metal pincer with a spring to shut on it(tiny really), and then a plastic handle with 2 metal points one is a tip and the other is an angle flat head edge. The best I've found so far is heating the solder joints and running the tip along it scraping away at the solder running down the line and it got a lot of it off, but now i"m at a point where the old solder just won't give up and die already and it won't move or does but not off the pin (just around it.)

Where do I got with this? I know from that attempt I mentioned I can do the soldering job, but damned if I'm stuck not able to get the chip off and force will just break it.

[RP2A03]

I've just got a soldering cut, a metal pincer with a spring to shut on it(tiny really), and then a plastic handle with 2 metal points one is a tip and the other is an angle flat head edge. The best I've found so far is heating the solder joints and running the tip along it scraping away at the solder running down the line and it got a lot of it off, but now i"m at a point where the old solder just won't give up and die already and it won't move or does but not off the pin (just around it.)

I'm not sure what you are describing here, but it sounds way wrong. A "soldering cut" (is that like a paper cut?), a metal pincer with a spring to shut on it (heat sink perhaps?), and a plastic handle with 2 metal points? It sounds like you are trying to scrape away the solder. You are supposed to suck it up using either a bulb or a wick. You may find this page helpful: http://www.epemag.wimborne.co.uk/desolderpix.htm

It also sounds like you are not particularly familiar with soldering. If that is the case I would recommend having a look at these:

http://www.epemag.wimborne.co.uk/solderpix.htm

http://www.epemag.wimborne.co.uk/solderfaq.htm#howto

[Niku-Sama]

this is what I use on about 80% of my repairs:

http://www.amazon.com/SS350-G-Plated...FCK71919146Y7H

[CRTGAMER]

I've been at this for hours trying to get a way down to doing this. A few attempts got a bit further, once I thought I jacked the board so I re-soldered it and the game as is came back to life. The thing is I need this board for another valuable game with a busted PCB if what I was told in the sale was right (probably likely is.)

I've just got a soldering cut, a metal pincer with a spring to shut on it(tiny really), and then a plastic handle with 2 metal points one is a tip and the other is an angle flat head edge. The best I've found so far is heating the solder joints and running the tip along it scraping away at the solder running down the line and it got a lot of it off, but now i"m at a point where the old solder just won't give up and die already and it won't move or does but not off the pin (just around it.)

Where do I got with this? I know from that attempt I mentioned I can do the soldering job, but damned if I'm stuck not able to get the chip off and force will just break it.

Get a Solder Sucker and Desolder Braid. I posted info on how to desolder chips on my CRT Repair Guide back at Racketboy, quoted below.

http://www.racketboy.com/forum/viewt...458437#p458437



Desolder Suction Tool
Test the tool to see how it works. Push the plunger in until it locks. Cover the suction tip with your finger and press the release button. The plunger should not go all he way up because of you finger holding a vacuum at the tip. Remove your finger and observe how the plunger pops all the way up.

Before heating an electrical pad, be sure to have the suction tool in standby position with the plunger locked down. Heat up the the solder pad, remove Solder Iron. Quicky cover the melted solder pad with the suction tip and press the release button. It will suck up any solder that is in the melted fluid state.

Desolder Wick
The Desolder Wick is a copper braid and is flux coated. First try heating it with the solder gun away from the PCB to see how it works while cleaning the Solder Iron. Note how the wick draws in the solder from the solder gun tip. Every time you heat up the wick and draw in solder, it cannot be used again. The flux is burned off and you want to prevent introducing the drawn in solder back onto the PCB. Cut off the wick with the wire cutters, a little extra off to have a clean unheated flux coating braid.

Prepare the wick first by pinching with your fingers, offering a tighter point for better desolder control. Place the wick point over the solder pad and heat up the wick with the solder gun. Be careful not to overheat that might damage the solder pad on the PCB. The wick will draw in the solder onto its copper braid underneath.

Residual Solder
If you are still having trouble removing the solder you can try this. Do this only after you have removed as much solder as possible with the above two methods first. MELTED SOLDER RUNOFF COULD SHORT OTHER COMPONENTS. That said, I had a couple of chip legs that were still stuck with just a little solder in the hole. Heat up the leg and solder pad. While the melted solder is in a fluid state purse your lips and blow or use a can of air. Works faster then getting the suction tool into position, but risky where the melted solder lands. This is why a last resort.

Look closely at each desoldered Chip leg, check for clearance movement with a tiny Slotted Screwdriver.



Verify each Chip leg
As you do each leg, check you progress with a magnifying glass. The PCB white marking will burn a little. That is okay as long as the solder pad does not get damaged or pulled up. Use a small slotted jewelers screwdriver, wiggle each leg to be sure it is clear of the PCB. TO PREVENT DAMAGE TO THE PCB, DO NOT FORCIBLY REMOVE THE CHIP. Once you confirm all legs are straight and free of the PCB, pull the chip with a Chip Puller or Needle Nose Pliers. You can also use the Off Set Screwdriver, do not force the old chip out.

[Tanooki]

Soldering cut was an epic typo/mistyping. I've got a soldering gun from radio shack with a nice tip on it, the rest of the little list is what I have.

Niku & CRT -- Magnificent, that should do it. I know I need at least soldering wick to lay down over those pins to suck up the rest with a bit of heat, though I do wonder if a pump would be more effective with this aged factory solder on the board. I want to do this right, only get one shot not to fubar the hell out of Grind STormer. If I can do this, I'll go buy a few more swappable beater carts and pick up 3 other Tengen games I want.

I'll hit up Radio Shack in a few hours, Grind Stormer is arriving a day early so I'm going to make a project of this.

I'll keep that guide up there until I do the job so I don't forget it exists. I had no idea that was over on racketboy as I'm on there too. I never have good luck with forum search tools the again it was about repairing a Sony WEGA so I wouldn't have even looked at that.


And RP I'm pretty basic on this. My soldering is limited to re-attaching broken joints on my pinball tables and removing and replacing video game cartridge batteries. I've never popped and swapped a microchip or other such part that is soldered into/through a board with a solder tip on the reverse side before. I didn't know I needed the wick to suck up the leftovers to free the chip. I had been going over it for a couple hours bleeding it away from it the best I could and the best got me like 3 out of 40 pins free so I gave up on it and made the post.

[leatherrebel5150]

I didn't read the entire thing but did you put some flux on it? I always smear a bit across the pins before removing chips

[RP2A03]

You might want to practice on a junk board before you work on something valuable.