Shovelware or not, any serious publication who gives a damn about covering the industry fully is going to review as many new releases as they can get ahold of and "test."
Besides, not everyone knows that shovelware is shovelware and sooner or later someone is going to buy it or think about buying it. So yes, a review of this stuff would help.
You can find well-written, professional reviews for darn near any movie that gets released whether it is a theatrical hit, direct-to-dvd rubbish or tv movie.
Any decent Atari, Sega or NES site/publication (dedicated ones) will give write-ups on the most horrendous stuff that those consoles saw because they are aware they have some degree of responsibility to their readers and to consumers.
Why should only AAA or niche video game titles get covered by a modern publication or web site? The "pick and choose what we want to score" nonsense doesn't sit well with me, especially when web sites with no genuine deadlines employ the same mentality.